Ingredient: Lupin Seed Extract

INCI:  Lupinus albus seed extract

Source: Lupin Flowers

Our rating: GOOD

What is Lupin Seed Extract:

Lupin is a legume whose seeds are very high in protein and contain secondary oil and minor biologically active components. It is a colorless to light brown liquid with characteristic odor profile. The recommended concentration range is from 0.5% to 2%. In the skincare industry, it is used as an emollient (film-forming agent) and in hair care, to increase the tensile strength of hair.

It is farmed in Europe, prominently in the south of France. Lupin seeds are produced in pods that develop on the main stem of the lupin plant.

Benefits of Lupin Seed Extract:

Lupin seed extract contains penta- and hexapeptides that work as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) inhibitor in our body. The matrix MMPs are a family of peptidase enzymes responsible for the degradation of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, gelatin, fibronectin, laminin and proteoglycan. The penta- and hexapeptides from the lupin seed prevent MMP activity and reduce the breakdown of collagen and elastin. They help to renew the skin’s outer layer, reduce the depth of wrinkles and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin to give the skin a more youthful appearance.

Research has shown that in a 72-hour in vitro test, the seed extract increased production and secretion of type I collagen by 46%. Another 48-hour test showed that the extract induced overproduction of HSP47 known to assist in the correct assembly of the triple helix and helped to prevent maturation of abnormal procollagen. The ingredient’s effectiveness was also analyzed in an 89-day in vivo test with 25 volunteers aged 45 to 65 years using a cream with 2% of the extract. The results showed improved skin elasticity and significant reduction of facial oval sag, 92% of the volunteers also noticed greater firmness of the skin and 72% noticed reduced sagging of the facial contour.

Side Effects & Toxicity:

An extremely safe ingredient, lupin seed extract has no known toxicity in general use and is shown to be non-irritating and suitable for sensitive skin.

Editor’s Note:

The pure concentrated lupin seed extract is rarely used in formulations and is generally diluted with sunflower oil, water or glycerin.